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Flavorful Kebabs, Aromatic Biryani along with Much More: Indian City Secures a Place on the UNESCO Creative Cities List.

Biryani cooking via the traditional Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is simmered on a low, leisurely heat, with the vessel's cover tightly closed with dough.

Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.

The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.

Worldwide Recognition

Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".

The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.

Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.

A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine

The honor for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".

With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its heart: an immense love for food.

"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
Melt-in-the-mouth kebabs being served
Lucknow is famous for its incredibly tender kebabs.

A Royal Culinary Legacy

The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.

These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.

It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.

But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.

A Diverse Culinary Landscape

In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.

The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.

Fluffy dessert a winter specialty
The city showcases unique seasonal delights, such as Makkhan Malai, a one-of-a-kind cloud-like dessert, when it gets cold.

Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries

Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.

In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.

For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Famous tea stall offering masala chai
A legendary tea stall is noted for its milky masala chai.

Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage

The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.

On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.

A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.

The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.

By

Madeline Sheppard

Liam de Vries is a Rotterdam-based journalist and urban culture enthusiast with a passion for street art and underground music scenes.

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